My hair grew when it was natural and it grew when it was relaxed and in both states, when my hair did the very best, I used minimal hair products. As a matter of fact, since I have gone to the opposite of the established practices and started to whip up my own concoctions in the kitchen from my weekly groceries I have gotten some good results.

There are many persons who are just coming to a realization of hair care and want to have a step-by-step guide on how to proceed. This is a suggestion of where to begin. On this site, the push is really to take care of your hair with the bounteous things of nature and to do it with as little fuss as possible.

The Basics:

What Is The Secret To Having Long Thick Relaxed Hair-Part One

What Is The Secret To Having Long Thick Relaxed Hair- Part Two

Understanding Hair

Black Women Hair Care – 7 Hair Facts You Should Know

Hair Types

How To Have A Healthy Hair Scalp

How To Achieve Healthy Hair Ends

Moisture and Hair

Protein and Hair

Moisture and Protein Maintaining The Balance

Oils Explained

Oils vs Moisture

Natural Products?

Hair Regimens Why You Should Have One

It is a part of my hair regimen, I have suggested it on this site all the time, no doubt you go to the stylist and she’ll take up a hank of your hair and say tut-tut, you need a hot oil treatment, but have you ever wondered- why do I need a hot oil hair treatment? What is it about hot oil on my head that is so important to the overall health of my hair? Well here are some reasons:

1. The use of hot oil treatments has a conditioning effect on the hair and scalp. This is good news especially for women who have dry hair. Hot oil treatments can help to restore the hair to its best possible condition.

2. Hot oil treatments are very good news for dry damaged hair. If your hair is chemically treated, you use heat to style it all the time whether its blow dryers, straightening irons etc. or you use hair dyes. A hot oil treatment will infuse moisture and strength to the hair shaft, because it enters the very core of the hair, helping to heal the damage.

3. If you have frizzy hair or fly away ends, a hot oil treatment will reduce the look of damage. Like magic it can make your otherwise lank ugly hair look shiny, full of body and bounce.

4. Your scalp loves it! When the scalp absorbs all the delicious goodness from your organic oils it is quite happy to produce healthy hair to reward you for being so kind to it.

WHEN?

In the article Oils Explained: Essential Oils and Carrier Oils For Hair, I explored some of the essential oils and carrier oils that can be used for a hot oil treatment, their uses and benefits to particular hair types. All hair types can benefit from a hot oil hair treatment; you can customize your hair treatment regardless of hair texture or condition to create a hot oil treatment that is just right for you.

Dry Hair- do a hot oil hair treatment every week. Before you shampoo your hair, with a shampoo that is free from harsh detergents, apply hot oils to hair and let it sit on hair for a while. If you are pressed for time, you can do it overnight. Wake up in the morning and shampoo as usual.

Essential Oils For Dry Hair: Rosemary, Lavender, Peppermint, Geranium, Sandalwood.

Carrier Oils For Dry Hair: Sweet Almond, Avocado, Olive, Coconut, Castor, Jojoba.

Suggestions: Always use a carrier oil with an essential oil for a hot oil treatment. Carrier oils should be used more generously than essential oils. You can use a combination of carrier oils or even just one for a hot oil treatment. Using two or more carrier oils can enhance your treatment but that decision is totally up to you and what you have available or what you can afford.

Grey Hair- is more porous than other hair and requires a bit more conditioning especially if it is chemically treated or dyed. You should do a hot oil treatment every single week without fail. This bit is directed at my mother. I hope when she reads this, she smiles.

The same carrier oils that are used for dry hair can be used for your hair. If you want to add a darkening effect to your hair, you can use sage as your essential oil. It darkens hair overtime while conditioning your scalp. If you want your greys to have a silvery tinge you can try chamomile as an essential oil.

Normal Hair- after practicing a good hair regimen for some time, eventually you will wake up one day and your hair is normal-there is no hair drama, your hair is thick like a rope and growing like a weed or you are blessed with hair that can stand the rigours of whatever you throw at it. Normal, healthy hair has good elasticity (hair that stretches when pulled) with no breakage and minimal split ends. This hair type is also neither greasy nor dry and looks healthy most of the time.

You may not need to do a hot oil treatment every week or even every other week. Maybe once a month will suffice for your hair. The occasional treatment will help to maintain healthy hair growth, and keep your hair nourished and glistening.

Essential Oils: Rosemary, Lavender, Peppermint, Eucalyptus, Jasmine, Lemongrass (also called fever grass)

Carrier Oils: Jojoba, Castor, Coconut, Olive, Sweet Almond, Sesame

Oily Hair- this can be caused by a variety of reasons and you might ask if I am crazy including this hair type in hot oil section but there are oils which are perfect for oily hair conditions. You can do a hot oil treatment every other week if your hair is oily. You can also use the essential oils listed to do regular scalp massages to normalize the oil producing sebaceous glands.

Essential oils: Sage, Rosemary, Lavender, Eucalyptus, Tea Tree, Peppermint, Basil, Chamomile, Lemon

Carrier Oils: Sweet Almond, Jojoba

Suggestions: Do not allow oil treatment to stay longer than an hour on your hair. Do not use harsh detergents to wash your hair; it can exacerbate your oily hair problem. You can use mild shampoos.

Breaking Hair, Chemically Treated Hair, Damaged Hair- you need to hot oil treat every single week. Additionally, you can put the relevant herbs found here in your hot oil, allow them to fuse and then strain, then apply to hair. There are a host of herbs that you can probably find in your locale that can be added to your hot oil for additional benefits like garlic, horsetail, aloe, comfrey, cayenne pepper. If you do not have access to herbs or you are too busy to look around. Using the oils alone is just as good.

Essential Oils: Rosemary, Lavender, Peppermint, Cinnamon, Horsetail, Neem, Sage

Carrier Oils: Sesame, Coconut, Castor, Olive, Jojoba, Sweet Almond.

HOW?

Hot oil treatments are really easy to do at home. You can combine up to 3-carrier oils if you wish. Complementary essential oils, when used together, will further enhance the effects that each essential oil has on it’s own. The following guide will help you to prepare your formulations:

• Short hair: 2 tsp carrier oil; 2-drops essential oil
• Medium length hair: 1 Tbsp carrier oil; 4-drops essential oil
• Long hair: 2 Tbsp carrier oil; 6-drops of essential oil.

The amount of oil you will need will also be determined by the thickness and texture of your hair. Make sure that you apply the oil to the entire hair shaft.

How To Make Hot Oil Hair Treatment

There are three ways to prepare the hot oil treatment, there is the lazy girl’s way- put your oils in a microwavable container and put it in the microwave for 20 seconds, if it is too hot to handle, wait until it is comfortable enough for your fingers to dip into the mixture and you can apply it to your hair with ease. Cover hair with a plastic cap, you can leave it on for an hour or more. The longer you leave it on the better.

The second way, is to put your oils or oil if you are using just one, in a container with a cover (glass preferably) boil some water in a separate container (saucepan, pot) and then turn off the boiling water and put your glass bottle in the hot water for about five minutes. It should be pleasantly warm, be careful not to burn your fingers when taking it out. After that apply the oil while it is still warm, cover your hair with plastic and let your body heat do the rest.

The third way is to part your hair and ensure that all your strands have oil on it, pin it up in a loose ponytail under a plastic cap, go under a hair dryer (setting should be cool or low heat) for 10-20 minutes. Keep on your plastic cap for an hour or more after that.

Here are some of the benefits itemized:

Repairs Damage: There are several things that we do knowingly and unknowingly that can damage our hair, chemicals, heat, weather, the list can go on. What olive oil does is to re-hydrate the hair by penetrating the shaft and protects the hair by sealing in the moisture. Overtime, a consistent use of olive oil can make a big difference to not only the appearance of the hair but the tensile strength of it too.

Clears Up Dry Scalp: It fights dry scalp by restoring moisture to the scalp. A very good practice is to massage olive oil into the scalp before any chemical treatments or hair processes that can cause dryness, even washing the hair with harsh chemicals can be cause for dryness.

Shine Booster: there is no need to buy a sheen-boosting product if you have a bottle of olive oil handy. Olive oil enhances sheen by coating the outer layer of your hair shaft. It allows the little scales that are along your hair shaft to be locked down pretty tightly, giving the hair a smooth, shiny appearance. Whilst most oils can give you the appearance of sheen, olive oil like its counterpart coconut, avocado and castor actually add many benefits when applied.

Enhances Hair Growth: We all know by now that no product, no matter how wonderful, can make your hair grow faster than your genetics dictate. However, olive oil has antioxidants that are effective in the treatment of hair loss by blocking DTH (the hormone that causes hair follicle to decrease), it is also a natural conditioner for hair, which can promote the ideal conditions for hair growth.

Types of Olive Oil

Olive oil is in high demand; persons use it for so many things including beauty that there seems to be an addition of olive oil to most beauty products. But are they really beneficial?

It is up to users to know which oils will yield the most benefit. There are three basic grades of olive oil, and several types within each grade.

1. Extra virgin- includes “premium extra virgin” and “extra virgin”; made from the first pressing of the olives, which removes about 90 percent of the olives’ juice. Chemicals and high heat are not allowed in the production of extra-virgin or virgin oils — no further processing or refining occurs after the pressing process. Neither extra-virgin nor virgin oils are allowed to contain any refined olive oil. “Extra-virgin olive oil” has a fruity taste and may be pale yellow to bright green in color. In general, the deeper the color, the more flavor it yields. And as you know, the closest a product is to nature the better it is for your body.

2. Virgin- comprises “fine virgin,” “virgin,” and “semi-fine virgin” The difference between extra virgin and virgin and where they rank is just half a percentage point of acidity. Virgin olive oil can also impart antioxidant benefits to the hair and skin as discussed above.

3. Olive oil- includes what used to be called “pure olive oil” and “refined oil.” Some olive oil is further refined after the first pressing. These three types of oils can no longer bear the title “virgin.” When virgin oils are not fit for human consumption, they are sent to a processing plant where they become “refined olive oils.” There they undergo processing with agents that might include heat, chemicals, and/or filtration. These refined olive oils become clear, odorless, and flavourless. These are the least desirable oils to be used on the hair because they have been heavily processed and most of the benefits mentioned in this article are not in these oils.

The Best Type Of Olive Oil To Use For Hair

Hence the best olive oil to use in the hair is the extra virgin oil or the virgin oil which is rich in high levels of mono-unsaturated fatty acids and Vitamin E. Both mono-unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E are good for moisturizing, protecting and nourishing hair. Refined olive oil does not have the emollient properties, which is often recommended for treating hair loss or battling dandruff.

How To Use Olive Oil For Hair

Everyday- if you have dry, itchy scalp apply olive oil directly to the itching flaking area.

Massage- apply olive oil to the scalp and gently massage into the scalp with circular motions.

Pre-Relaxer- apply olive oil generously to the scalp and the entire hair shaft at least two days before a relaxer treatment. It will make a difference in dry scalp conditions after a relaxer especially if you use no-lye solutions.

Post Relaxer- apply olive oil to scalp and hair shaft, after a relaxer treatment, do not use petroleum-based products.

Shampoo- One tablespoon of extra virgin or virgin olive oil added to your shampoo will boost its benefits.

Conditioner- A combination of olive oil and lavender oil can be used as a natural conditioner. Left on the hair overnight and then washed out in the morning. For those who are sticklers to a creamy conditioning routine, a tablespoon of olive oil added to your regular deep conditioner will work wonders for dry hair. Added to regular conditioner will increase the penetrative quality of regular conditioner.

Hot Oil Treatment- Put only the oil you will need in a bottle or bowl and place it in hot water to warm up, apply to hair and cover with a plastic cap. Do not heat up all your oil especially if it is extra virgin oil, only heat up what you will need.

Combined with other oils- you can combine olive oil with essential oils to boost their penetration into your hair shaft. There is no need to mix olive oil with other carrier oils; it works just as well on its own.

See a list of carrier and essential oils and their uses here.

Reference:

http://recipes.howstuffworks.com/how-olive-oil-works2.htm

Here’s why:

· It balances the pH on your scalp; this makes it very useful in dry, flaky scalp situations.
· Peppermint oil stimulates the scalp and also the follicle of the hair; this stimulation is a precursor to hair growth.
· It fights dandruff, and head lice. I would imagine that lice would find the scent of the peppermint oil offensive, but while lice might not like the scent of the oil, your hair certainly does. This oil has a soothing scent just use it sparingly; use too much and you smell like candy or toothpaste all day.
· Peppermint oil is a great hair conditioner; it adds shine and gloss to the hair and also gives the hair body.
· Peppermint oil is a staple in several hair loss preparations because it binds the hair roots, and increases the blood circulation on the scalp.

How To Use Peppermint Oil for Hair
Peppermint oil can be used for both dry and oily hair conditions, as mentioned before it balances the hair’s pH. Here are some useful ways to add peppermint oil to your hair regimen.
· As a pre-shampoo treatment, mix 3 drops of peppermint oil to your favourite carrier oil (castor, coconut, jojoba, almond, olive), apply to hair overnight, cover hair with plastic cap, cover that with your sleeping scarf, shampoo in the morning.
· Peppermint oil can be easily incorporated in your shampoo. Just add 2 drops to your shampoo. You can also do the same for your conditioner.
· For hair issues like intense itching or flaky scalp, use 2 drops peppermint oil, 2 drops tea tree oil, 2 drops vitamin E oil and 1 tablespoon of your regular carrier oil, massage this into the scalp. It works for a whole host of dry hair conditions.
· For scalp massages, peppermint oil is very soothing. Use 2 to three drops and a teaspoon of carrier oil.

Caution
Peppermint oil is very intense and can cause scalp irritation if used in its concentrated form and applied directly to the scalp, it is always best to dilute peppermint oil before using it directly on the skin.

Coconut Oil Hair Benefits:

The molecules in coconut oil are very small and this makes it a penetrative oil. This is good news for hair because when the oil easily penetrates the hair shaft and works with the natural hair proteins, the result is stronger hair that is able to withstand quite a bit of damage.

• Coconut oil is also used to treat scalp conditions including that of sebhorreic dermatitis, dry scalp and other fungal conditions.
• Coconut oil minimizes protein loss because of its medium-chain triglycerides that can pass through the cell membrane and reinforce the hair’s structure. It also provides the essential proteins required for nourishing damaged hair.
• Coconut oil has long been associated with healthy hair growth and thick, glossy hair.
• Coconut oil is not only anti-dandruff but also anti-lice, regular applications of coconut oil can discourage lice from finding a home on your scalp.
• Coconut oil can help to stimulate proper circulation on the scalp and keep it moisturized.

What is the best coconut oil to use?

The best coconut oil to use is cold pressed or what is called virgin coconut oil that is derived from fresh coconuts. Refined or fractionated coconut oil is not the best for hair or for your regular consumption. A good indication of whether coconut oil is heavily processed or not is its ability to sleep or turn into a solid when the temperature drops.

How can coconut oil be used in hair?

Coconut oil can be used in hair in all phases of your hair regimen. However when using coconut oil or any other oil as a part of your moisturizing process, remember to add your water based product first and then seal with the coconut oil. Coconut oil does not work as well when applied to dry, un-moisturized hair for everyday use.

Coconut oil works well with essential oils like peppermint, tea tree, lavender. It can be added to hot oil treatments, shampoos, conditioners and used in deep conditioner recipes or added to your regular store bought deep conditioner.

Castor oil is thick, golden in appearance and is the by-product of the castor plant. A plant that is not without some controversy because of certain toxic compounds which can be found on the surface of the castor bean.

Why is castor oil so special? It contains a rare fatty acid called ricinoleic acid, it can be found only in castor oil and a group of fungi called ergot. Due to its high ricinoleic acid content castor oil exhibits strong pain-killing, anti microbial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Castor Oil Hair and Skin Benefits

• Castor oil has a small molecular size, this means that it penetrates easily, deeply and quickly into the skin. This makes it one of the super penetrative carrier oils besides coconut and olive oil.
• Castor oil soothes inflamed skin including the hair scalp.
• Castor oil provides a moisturizing effect to hair and scalp, because of its penetrative qualities castor oil does not only coat the hair strand but enters the cuticle imparting its numerous minerals and nutrients thus guaranteeing long lasting hydration and nutrition to hair and scalp.
• Castor oil thickens and promotes hair growth even in places where hair would not grow before. Castor oil can also be used to thicken other areas where hair is sparse on your body like your eyebrows and eyelashes.
• Castor oil can repair chemical damage due to hair abuse with regular use. The omega-9 fatty acids in castor oil also nourishes the hair and prevents the scalp from drying out.
• Castor oil is a humectant as it draws moisture into the hair and skin. Applying castor oil on hair will keep it soft and supple.

What is the best castor oil to use?
A cosmetic or therapeutic grade castor oil is best for hair care. You can use cold pressed or castor oil done the Jamaican way, which is roasting the beans and then pressing the seeds, this castor oil is darker in color and very thick.This oil works extremely well on hair.

A quality cold pressed castor oil has a clear, yellow color with a mild, natural plant odor. After the castor oil is applied, it should not have lingering scent. This cold pressed type is said to work best on skin especially when placed around the eyes to reduce wrinkles or dark spots.

Castor Oil Suggestions they are both very good:
Pure Cold Pressed Castor Oil—  Heritage Store Castor Oil, 32 Ounce

Roasted Beans, Darker Castor Oil— Tropic Isle Living Jamaican Black Castor Oil 4oz

What are the Benefits of Coconut Milk for Hair?

• Controls and heals several scalp issues including dermatitis.
• Stops hair shedding and breakage
• Boosts hair growth
• Makes the hair soft and supple
• When mixed with lemon juice can loosen the curls in hair. Here is a recipe experimenting with the cream and oil of the coconut: Coconut and Yogurt Conditioner For Transitioning Hair
• Reduces premature graying.
• Very good deep conditioner because of its penetrative qualities.

How to Use Coconut Milk for Hair?

Coconut milk can be easily prepared if you have access to a whole coconut. The dried version of the coconut is best to use, they can be found at farmers markets and in some supermarkets. The dried meat can be cut up thrown in the blender with just enough water and then blended and strained. That’s it!

If left to sit for more than an hour the cream of the coconut will rise to the top, you can add this cream to your hair butters for dry hair treatments. You can add coconut milk to aloe vera and massaged into the scalp for itching hair, coconut milk can also be used as an overnight pre-poo treatment. Allow it to dry and then cover hair, wash out in the morning.

You can add coconut milk to your shampoos, conditioners or use by itself or with other natural ingredients as a deep conditioner.

Note: coconut contains a significant amount of protein; add moisture to your preparation like honey or vegetable glycerin or your favorite moisturizing conditioner to your concoction if using coconut as a deep conditioner to avoid your hair becoming hard or crunchy after a treatment.

Almond Milk Hair Benefits

• Almonds contain a lot of protein; this enhances the repair and growth process. This is good news for hair whether you take it internally or use it as a deep conditioner.

• Almond milk is extremely good for hair shedding and dryness, when the milk is massaged in the scalp it loosens dead skin, when the hair follicles are free they grow much easier.

• Almond milk is rich in vitamin and minerals, which help to improve hair strength and enhance the texture of skin.

• Almond milk contains an abundance of iron, which improves the oxygen carrying ability of the blood; this includes the blood on your scalp, which in the long run encourages hair growth.

How To Use Almond Milk

As mentioned before almond milk is easy to make. It should be used in its raw (unroasted) unsweetened state before used on your hair. It can be soaked overnight in just enough water to cover it and then blended until smooth and then strained. This milk can be used in your shampoos, conditioner and deep conditioner. Massage the milk preparation gently into your scalp and leave in hair for an hour or more to maximize the effects of the almond.

Note: When making almond milk be careful that you use sweet almonds (most eating and roasting varieties on the market are sweet almonds). Bitter almonds combined with water releases cyanide.

However, we are more concerned with using it on the hair, and it so happens that like cow’s milk, goat milk is also a popular beauty aid and used extensively in skin and hair care preparations especially for dry damaged hair and skin.

Goat Milk Hair Benefits:

• Make hair soft and manageable.
• Good for dry scalp and especially for dandruff conditions.
• Softens hair and smoothes out nicks or scratches across the hair strand.
• Makes scalp healthier and less prone to dryness.
• When added to other moisture rich ingredients can make hair moisturized and pliable and extremely healthy.

How To Use Goat Milk For Hair
Goat milk can be gotten fresh, for those persons who are in countries where it is more common than cow’s milk or it can be found in the freezer section of your local supermarket. If you can’t find it in liquid form, goat milk is sold in dried whole milk form. Goat milk can be added to shampoos, conditioners or used with other nutritious ingredients as a deep conditioner or with tea as a rinse or added to your shea, mango or cocoa butter preparations for hair and skin.

Products with goat milk
Quite a few products on the market include goat milk as a base ingredient to counteract dry damaged hair. Here are a few if you are interested in adding goat milk to your hair and skin regimen. Goat Milk Products

Organic cow’s milk contains a host of nutrients including Vitamin A, E and B and minerals like calcium, phosphorous, magnesium and zinc that have the ability to strengthen and build up cells (healthy bones, teeth), and this building up of cells includes hair cells. Usually a milk advertisement would encourage you to drink it but this article is about using milk on hair.  Cow’s milk can be added to your regular regimen to rejuvenate dry, frizzy hair.

Cow Milk Hair Benefits

• Adds body to hair, when used in conjunction with egg and honey gives hair a very intense protein treatment.
• Adds moisture to hair, its best to use it with carrier oils, like coconut and almond oil for a good deep conditioning treatment.
• Makes hair resilient, hair soaked in milk can add to the tensile strength of the hair.
• Gives hair incredible shine and gloss. Especially useful if added to your regular moisturizing conditioning treatment.
• You can add cow milk to your tea rinses or use it as a substitute for yogurt in most homemade hair ingredients that call for yogurt.
• Milk can be added to hair butters for a creamy, less dense conditioner. This works very well for thick, dry hair.

So are you willing to try cow’s milk in your hair?

Once won’t hurt, the best milk to try is organic cow’s milk. You can also use whole milk powder instead of liquid cow’s milk,  if you have it. There are several products on the market with added milk for skin and only a few for hair.